How to Cook a Soft-Shell Crab

When soft-shell crab season rolls around, I make sure to pick up a few of these delicate crustaceans at my local market.  The fact that I can consume this delicious, white, flaky meat in its entirety without the use of a mallet or leaving a large mess in my tiny apartment is a boon.

What I love most about these highly seasonal shellfish other than the fact that they are so good to eat:  soft-shells make for incredibly fast, easy preparations.  A lot of technique is not required beyond basic sauté skills.  Cooking soft-shell crabs is a lot easier than searing and crisping up most fish properly, in my opinion.

The prep is minimal:  no picking of pin bones or mad fabrication, just have your butcher clean the crabs when you buy them.  Or, if you are feeling brave, you can clean them yourself;  its really easy and fast, I promise.

Also, its not a bad idea to soak the little guys in a milk solution for a few hours beforehand, as this will purge the shellfish of any briny tang that some may find overwhelming.

Regarding the actual cooking, I almost always sauté.  (I do seriously love a soft-shell crab po’boy with all my beating heart, but I’m one of those people who absolutely abhors deep-frying at home, so I rarely do it.)  The key points are to not overload the pan, and to use the right temperature.  For my small 24cm carbon steel pan, one crab worked perfectly in a couple tablespoons of oil over medium high heat.  Cooked for 4 minutes on each side and that was it.

As for what to eat your soft-shells with, anything and everything goes, from starches to vegetables and even fruits (like french fries, grilled ramps or pickled watermelon!).  As for myself, I like my shellfish light and simple :   just a good, green salad, garlic-rubbed croutons and some remoulade, like a deconstructed non-po’-boy-po’-boy.

The recipe I’m providing is really basic as the focus here is on technique.  One could jazz it up by blending some spices with the flour before dusting if so desired.

SAUTÉED SOFT-SHELL CRABS
serves 4

4 ea, soft-shell crabs
milk, as needed
water, as needed

salt and freshly ground black pepper as needed
Wondra flour, for dusting
oil, as needed

Clean the soft-shells, or have your butcher do it, and place in a bowl.  Cover with a solution of milk and water, (the ratio I use is roughly 2 parts milk to 1 part water.)  Allow to soak, refrigerated for a minimum of 1 hour.  Can be held up to 24 hours.

Remove the crabs from the milk, shaking off any excess liquid.  Discard the milk.

Heat up a large sauté skillet over medium high heat.  While the pan is heating, season the crabs and lightly dust with Wondra flour on each side, shaking off excess.  When the pan is hot, add in a few tablespoons of oil.  Place the crabs (without overloading to prevent steaming) top side down into the pan.  Cook the crab for 4-5 minutes on each side, until the shells are red and a golden brown crust is formed.  (Caution:  sometimes popping will occur, its not a bad idea to have a grease screen handy.)  Remove from the pan and serve.

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