Seco de Pato con Arroz Amarillo (Braised Duck with Yellow Rice)
Kevin’s Tour de Force
So, as promised in my last poultry post, I finally got my pal/cooking partner-in-crime/Momofuku Milk Bar Fellow Cookie “Tester”, Kevin Henriquez, to return to my kitchen to make his Seco de Pato con Arroz Amarillo. Non-literal translation: Braised Duck with Yellow Rice. Exclamatory interpretation: One of The Best Bleepin’ Duck Dishes I’ve Ever Had in My Life!!!
I know, I know, I should just rename my blog Duck, Duck, Pig, already, sheesh…
Seco de Pato is a Latin American specialty, whereby meat is braised in a flavorful liquid made with cilantro, achiote, onions, peppers, tomato, garlic, beer… There are different variations of this dish, depending on the country its cooked in and personal taste. Different meats, for example, can be used. Kevin recommended using an old hen, or even goat (mind you, he exclaimed “Goat!” with dreamy eyes). I think pork might prove sublime. I also imagine the addition of potatoes, plantains, peas or carrots would work well too.
Kevin, who is of Ecuadorian descent, has worked on his Seco de Pato for many years with great devotion, tweaking ingredients and cooking techniques. What has evolved is a dish that truly awakens the soul. The flavors are warm and vibrant, the food hearty and comforting but not heavy, perfect during any season of the year. Its the type of meal you share with family or friends at a wooden table at Home in the spirit of love and laughter. Its a rustic, wonderful dish that just couldn’t get any better. (Although, Kevin did mention that the addition of aji peruano, a special ground pepper, and chicha de jora, pineapple in particular, would’ve elevated his dish to an even higher level.)
Of course, the best and requisite accompaniment to Seco de Pato is rice (although I insisted on some diced avocado and a liberal sprinkling of duck cracklings too). No one cooks yellow rice better than Kevin Henriquez. The ingredients are few, and his technique simple. When measuring out the water, Kevin showed me his trick: place enough water over the rice to meet the first line on the inside of your finger (where the top of your finger bends). This trick worked unequivocally: he tried it and then I did, and the measurement came out exactly the same (Kevin is much taller than I am, like everyone else on the planet…). The rice came out perfectly cooked, the grains tender but firm, sans mushiness.
Just a note: Normally, the entire duck would be used in a traditional Seco de Pato. However, Kevin and I both live in the “if-its-over-medium-rare-then-its-overcooked-camp” regarding duck breasts. No way was I going to let dry out the gorgeous breast meat of the D’artagnan duck I had picked up. The flavorful breasts were simply pan-roasted over the stovetop, sliced and served on the side. But if you wish, you can, of course, throw them in the stew, in which case I’d probably leave them on the bone.
Without further ado, here is my friend Kevin’s Tour de Force, his Seco de Pato con Arroz Amarillo. Enjoy.
SECO de PATO
From 1 duck (approx. 6 pounds): the legs, neck, wings, and giblets (no liver), trimmed and cleaned. Breasts optional. Can substitute with an old hen.
1 tbl vegetable oil
1 ea medium white onion, small dice
1 ea large green bell pepper, small dice
1 ea large tomato, small dice
1 tbl garlic, minced
3 tsp annatto oil
1/2 tbl Goya Adobo all purpose seasoning
1 packet Goya Sazón (con culantro y achiote)
1 bottle light beer (12 oz)
1 heaping cup loose cilantro leaves and stems, roots trimmed off
1 1/2 tsp cider vinegar
Heat up a heavy large pot over medium heat. Add in the tablespoon of oil. Place the legs and wings, unseasoned, skin side down and render out until golden brown, about 8-10 minutes.*
Remove the duck from the pot, and add in the onion, pepper, tomato, garlic and annatto oil. Sweat and stir (scrape up that fond) for about 3 minutes, until the onions just start to turn translucent.
Return the duck to the pot, including the giblets and neck. Add in the seasonings. Stir, bring to a simmer, and cover. Cook over low heat until the meat is tender, about 40 minutes.
Uncover the pot, increase the heat to maintain a simmer and reduce the liquid by half, about 8-10 minutes. Add in the beer and reduce that by half.
Add the cilantro and cider vinegar. Cook for about 10 more minutes. Taste for seasoning and serve.
ARROZ AMARILLO
3 C long grain rice
2 packets Goya Sazón (con culantro y achiote)
3 tbls annatto oil
pinch salt
water, as needed
Place rice in a medium-sized pot. Make sure the rice is level and add water, with your fingertip touching the top of the rice. The water should reach the level of the first line inside your finger where the joint is. Add in the remaining ingredients and place over high heat.
Bring the rice to a boil, lower to a simmer, and then cover tightly. Cook until done, about 20 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork when done cooking to prevent sticking.
Thank you, Kevinio.
*If you do decide to add in the breasts, score the skins, without cutting into the flesh, to enable more effective rendering. Before adding in the vegetables, some fat may be removed if there’s a huge amount. 1 tablespoon left in the pot should be enough.
NOTE: If you do cook this dish with another type of meat, the cooking time may vary. Just be sure to cook until tender, trust your senses!
DISCLAIMER: Goya was just the brand Kevin used, I was not paid to endorse it.
5 comments
oooh, goody, something else to make use of that bottle of annatto in the fridge. I concur with Kevin’s recommendation. I can’t wait to try this with goat.
Looks great, reminds me of pollo guisado. Never thought of using duck!
looks amazing! i had a couple thoughts/questions:
1) duck, duck, pig is the best name for a blog i have ever heard.
2) is achiote/annatto in there more for flavoring or just for color (or both)? I’ve never used it or even looked for it, is it readily available?
3) with rice, I’ve heard the finger trick, and I use it, but I still wonder this: you can see such a range of times suggested for cooking rice (I’ve seen like 12 minutes to 20 minutes). But you also are told NOT to open the lid before it’s done. So given the huge range of time, and the inability to check it, how does one know it’s done? I’ve come to sort of “know” my own system… but I was wondering if you had any more thoughts on rice cooking time. (or do you think the level of water is just much more important than the time?)
looking forward to trying this!
Talley: Achiote/Annatto is readily available at any supermarket. It is sold in the form of little rocks which must be slowly cooked in oil to get the full flavor out of it. If it is cooked at high heat the rocks will burn and you will have to start from scratch. For the rice, bring it to a boil uncovered. Once it boils cover it and drop the temp to a slow simmer. All in all time only matters if you like the crunchy rice at the bottom of the pot. The perfect amount of water is the essential key to perfect rice!
Talley: What Kevin said.
Annatto seeds might be more easily found in Latin or Indian markets if not at a more general place. For long grain rice, I’ve generally always stuck with 20 minutes. Of course, amount plus temperature will make a difference, since “low heat” means something different for everyone. When I cook rice over the stove, I listen to the pot near the 20-minute mark. I listen for light “popping” sounds, which pretty much means there’s no water left. Not the most definitive method, but it works for me. And don’t worry, lifting off the lid for a few seconds isn’t going to kill the rice. Another method I’ve seen was this: cook the rice as you normally would, then place a towel over the open pot, return the lid and allow to sit for 5-10 minutes. The towel is supposed to absorb any excess moisture if the rice is in danger of becoming mushy. I’ve never tried that myself, but its something to consider. Yes, and as Kevin said, the amount of water is far more important than the time.
Kevin: Thanks! I love when the rice gets crunchy at the bottom, its the best part! Must do that next time!
Leave a Comment