Carbon Steel Pan Update
5 months ago versus today.
Back in April, I introduced my DeBuyer carbon steel pan and its benefits(why I prefer it over Teflon, how it compares to cast iron, etc). It is one of the most indispensable pieces of cookware in my kitchen. Although it has proven to be slightly higher maintenance than my other pots and pans (i.e. having to dry it completely after each wash and keeping it lightly oiled,) I’m perfectly happy with it and the results it gives me. It is more nonstick than it was before, and the patina is starting to develop nicely. I didn’t even cook in it too much this summer, as I mostly adhered to a semi-raw diet due to the heat. I probably used it about once per week, mostly for pan-roasting meats and fish, frying eggs and sautéing vegetables.
After two weeks of use.
In my initial post, one reader commented (edited):
“I have a couple carbon steel pans that I use for cooking eggs and making hash browns… And they’re perfect in that regard… when finished cooking, I just drop some salt in (as a cleaning agent) and wipe around and dump it in the sink/garbage… I don’t use any water in this process… However, I have found that when I have cooked other things… Like a hamburger for example and had to use water (no detergent) to clean them.. that they have lost a significant part of their season and require re-seasoning before I can get non-stick with an egg… Any tips there? …”
After 5 months of light use.
To which I responded (again, edited):
“…From what I understand a carbon steel pan isn’t fully seasoned until its entirely black, like tar, which means oil has filled all the pores in the metal and been bonded to the metal itself through the heating process. Once a pan is heavily seasoned, the seasoning shouldn’t come off. I used to work at a place where the carbon steel pans were seasoned to the point that they could be scrubbed with every use in soapy water, and placed back by the stoves dripping wet, no rust ever formed and no seasoning ever came off (that layer of bonded oil becomes the new surface if I’m not mistaken, its called the patina). We were even able to deglaze our pans with highly-acidic ingredients…without any issue of stripping the seasoning or having the food taste like metal. The process just takes a long time, if I were you I would just continue as you are doing: if you wash the pan, dry it, oil it, and place in a warm oven for a few minutes to re-season…”
Having given the matter more thought, I’m guessing that rubbing the pan with salt to clean it might have been too abrasive to allow the patina to form properly. Anytime I’ve had really sticky food in the pan, this is what I do: with a plastic spatula, I’ll scrape off as much food bits as possible after use. I then let the pan sit in the sink (after its completely cooled) under running hot water while washing the other dishes. Again, I just use a sponge, with light soap if needed, to clean it out and use the spatula again if necessary. Rinse off, dry completely, oil lightly, heat on low for a few minutes to open up the pores again.
I did have one instance where the developing-patina seemed to be flaking off, I think I had scoured it too hard once with a green scrubbie. Since then, I’ve stuck to this: for tougher jobs, a baking soda paste might prove better than salt as it is much gentler (that’s what I use to clean stains out of my Le Creuset enameled pots, the paste leaves no scratches whatsoever.) Just mix a little water with baking soda to make a paste, and then apply it to the pan with a sponge or your fingers. Rub gently until stain or food particles are removed.
All of this has worked for me so far, but if anyone else could shed light on this matter, it would be great to hear!
NOTE: To read about how I seasoned my pan the first time, click here.
Disclaimer: I don’t work for De Buyer or any other brand; this is not meant to be an official endorsement or review of particular brands, I was not paid, I just happen to love carbon steel.
10 comments
Hi Connie,
I followed your comment on our blog to your site . . . and I love it! The first post I see is my very favorite cut of pork (belly), and now this great discussion of carbon steel.
I’ve always seen these kinds of pans in restaurant kitchens, but it didn’t dawn on me that they were carbon steel, which I am familiar with only because of my wok. I guess I assumed they were just budget friendly pans or something. Silly me. I love how my wok will develop a fantastic patina with use and care, and I should have known that the same must exist for a sauté/fry pan.
I really want to get one now and get it into shape. Any suggestions for a place to buy one online? or should I just check around in all the usual places?
Thanks again . . . I’ll be following along with your posts from now on.
Talley: Hi, Talley, thanks for stopping by from your wonderful blog!
First off, there are different brands to consider. I would recommend looking at de buyer, vollrath and matfer bourgeat. (I’ve heard that Matfer is the best, but I can’t say, having only my debuyer.) Of note, some companies may use the terms “blue steel” or “black steel,” but they are all carbon steel. I don’t know what the specific differences are, it could just be the finish. As for where to buy, any professional kitchen equipment store would be your best bet (I bought mine at Broadway Panhandler in NYC). Online, I’ve seen these pans on Amazon. Here are a few links: Vollrath, de buyer, Matfer. Good luck!
Thanks for the post, I love cookware. I bought the same deBuyer pan a few weeks ago in 12 in. and just started using it recently and I really like it. Do you have any pictures or know where I can find one of what one will look like in its prime?
Sam: Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures of a fully-seasoned pan and have not seen any. I can only tell you they are completely black, and the surface relatively shiny. When mine gets to that point (which unfortunately could take a long time,) I will definitely post a picture!
well, I just got my new carbon steel pan for christmas! (I hear you were instrumental in the choice of pan
thanks!) I look forward to using it and I’ll let you know how my pan develops. merry christmas!
Talley: You’re welcome. Hope you love the pan, and Merry Christmas to you and Beryl!
I’ve sped up my pan seasoning process simply by pan-roasting a lot of things. Brined whole chickens, leg of lamb, pork shoulder “porchetta” style, winter squashes, root veggies, steaks (arrose’d with butter Colicchio style) etc. etc. It’ll be good practice for when you work the broiler station.
Has your DeBuyer pan started warping at all? I have two Vollrath carbon steel pans that have begun to warp and bulge (convex, like a Chinese wok, but not as extreme) after a year of use on a glass-top electric stove at home. I never noticed this problem at work cooking on commercial gas ranges, but it makes a huge difference wobbling around on that flat glass surface. Are the thicker DeBuyer pans better at resisting warping? Worth the extra $$ over the cheaper, thinner commercial Vollraths?
Dave: My pan hasn’t warped at all. I can’t offer an opinion on the Vollrath having never used one, but I’ve heard that they are actually better than Debuyer. Are your pans being subjected to thermal shock (e.g. running cold water over a hot pan)? That could be why they are warping.
Nope, no thermal-shocking/cold-quenching/water-splashing or even mild deglazing. Just normal high heat cooking according to manufacturer’s instructions and then left to cool at room temperature off heat. Vollrath was kind enough to quickly replace the first warped pan (why I have 2) but the same thing happened to the second one. Maybe carbon steel pans (or cheap thin-gauge ones anyways) aren’t well suited for glass-top electric stoves? The warping isn’t horrible just annoying, and it doesn’t bother me a bit on the gas ranges at work.
I just looked up the pan specs on the manufacturers’ websites:
Vollrath carbon steel fry pans (all sizes): 16 gauge steel thickness (about 1.5189 mm)
DeBuyer Carbonne Plus (2.5 & 3 mm thick depending on size)
DeBuyer Force Blue (2 mm thick)
DeBuyer La Lyonnaise (1, 1.2 & 1.5 mm thick depending on size)
DeBuyer Mineral (2.5 & 3 mm thick depending on size)
I should’ve shopped around! Thanks for writing this and keep up the good work.
sources:
http://www.vollrathco.com/catalog_product.jsp?id=4500&cid=196
and
http://www.debuyer.com/
Dave: Thanks for the specs on the pans, that’s good to know!
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