Duck Rillette
How did I end up with only one leg of duck confit left?! It seems I’ve sabotaged my own plans for cassoulet, dagnabbit…
During the summer, I spent two months butchering, cooking and eating a small flock of ducks just to render enough fat to make some duck confit. The original goal was to make cassoulet in the winter, a rich, hearty specialty of southern France that involves beans, meat, sausage, and oftentimes duck confit, depending on the region. This dish is a favorite of mine which I have not had in years and years and years. (Ok, I’m not THAT old.)
The other week I was cleaning out the fridge, and happened upon a large plastic container which housed the last of my confit: duck joints held in frozen animation by chilled, white duck fat. The contents were emptied out into a pot and melted down, only to reveal the last sad leg. Trying to recall what had happened with the other pieces, I then remembered that I had used three of them to make rillette to give as gifts to some duck-lovin’ friends. I also remembered that I had forgotten about this post which I had started, but never finished.
The hand-shredded duck. Could’ve been a bit finer.
Rillette is like a rough version of pâté. Meat, typically pork, is slowly cooked in fat/lard until tender enough to shred apart easily. The meat is then mixed with some of the cooking fat and seasonings. To store, the mixture is compressed into containers, and sealed in underneath, yes, you guessed it, the cooking fat again! Pork has traditionally been the meat of choice for this spread, but of course, other proteins can be used, like rabbit, fish, and of course, duck.
Typically, the meat for rillette is pulverized into an almost paste-like consistency, making it easier to spread across a slice of bread or a cracker, but I prefer mine to be slightly coarser. Like anything else, its just a matter of personal preference.
I made my duck rillette in two different ways. The first: I hand-shredded one skinless duck leg (yes, hand-shredded, for old time’s sake as an old chef made me do it that way), mixed it with duck fat, garlic cloves which had been poached in the same fat, minced shallot, and orange zest. The garlic was slightly overpowering for my taste. For the second batch: placed the meat and skins of two duck legs into a mixer and shredded it with the dough hook. Added fresh herbs, orange zest, minced shallot, cognac and a few spoonfuls of some duck jus I had made.
What I call lunch. Or an hors d’oeuvre.
The second recipe turned out to be my favorite, both in flavor and technique. With the addition of the duck skin, I didn’t need to add more fat, (or throw away the skin). Plus, of course, using the mixer made my life a whole lot easier. Some people like to shred the meat with two forks, or a food processor as well. And don’t worry if you don’t have any duck jus, as I’m sure most of us don’t have that laying around. You can use reduced chicken stock (until its gelatinous when cooled) or a little veal glace. The purpose is really just to round out the flavors and help bind the ingredients.
Duck Rillette No.2, right before adding the fat.
My favorite way to eat this: spread on a piece of toast with some cornichons and a glass of red. My husband likes a little dijon mustard as well. Makes a great pre-dinner condiment along with the cheese and charcuterie, or you can throw it in a picnic basket on your way to the countryside.
Oh, by the way, I still hope to make cassoulet by winter’s time. It just means I’m going to have to go through a few more ducks first, however. Not that I’m complaining! There’s plenty of duck dishes to be eaten, like my friend Kevin’s mouth-watering Seco de Pato (which I promise is coming to a post near you as soon as I am able to get him back in my kitchen!) or this gorgeous herb-rubbed duck with cherry and sage sauce from Houseboat Eats. Of course, I will have to reserve the legs for confit, but the breasts will do just fine!
DUCK RILLETTE
makes 3 6-oz ramekins
2 duck legs, with skin, bones removed and discarded (better at room temp)
2 tsp finely minced shallot
1/2 tsp orange zest
2 tbls duck jus
1 tsp cognac
1 tsp chopped parsley
1/2 tsp chopped thyme
to taste, freshly ground black pepper
as needed, duck fat to cover
Place the duck meat and skins into a stand mixer with the dough hook attachment. On medium speed, mix the meat until finely shredded. Add in the remaining ingredients except for the fat, and mix just until combined.
Pack the rillette into ramekins or containers about 3/4 of the way up. You may weigh down the rillette for a couple of hours if you wish before sealing with the fat.
Melt the fat and pour over the rillettes, covering by about 1/4″ to seal. Cover with plastic wrap or lid (to keep that refrigerator smell out!). Keep refrigerated. Ideally, rillette is kept for 3 days before consumption for flavor development, but it can be eaten right away if desired. Typically, rillette can keep up to a few weeks if the fat seal is really good. But with the fresh herbs and shallots in my recipe, its better to consume it within 5-7 days.
7 comments
That looks fantastic. You always post on things that I have always wanted to try!
When you say the meat is typically pulverized to a rough paste, would that be done with a knife? or with something like a mortar and pestle? Also, I can’t picture the dough hook breaking up something like a fatty breast skin (even if cooked)… seems like it would just get pushed around… is there a trick? or would it just work?
and thanks for the link!
we just made some duck soup just so that we can render out some more fat to start trying your duck recipes!
Talley: From what I know, rillette is traditionally made by pulling the meat apart with two forks, which to me is a little awkward physically. Not sure what other equipment has been used in the past, although the use of a mortar and pestle wouldn’t surprise me. The dough hook worked for me, and I think a paddle would work as well (the meat was tender enough and at room temp). I’ve never made rillette with duck breast meat, although if I did, I imagine I would probably shred it by hand, or lightly in a food processor. If its going into a mixer with a paddle, it should at least be broken up a little bit by hand first.
Ravenous Couple: That’s awesome, let me know if you make anything! And I love duck soup!
i’ve got a whole jar of duck fat! guess what i’ll be doing next!!
what a delicious recipe, cant wait to try this, well done! cheers from london
3hungrytummies: Awesome, let me know how it goes!
pity: Thank you, would love to know if you make it!
great blog!! love, love, love duck rillettes! we’ve made pork rillettes before, but gotta do duck. prob. is, i end up eating so much of it i sweat duck fat for days!
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