Can I Move to San Francisco, Please???
Our second trip to the City by the Bay was pretty successful.
No, I should rephrase that. It was not a trip, it was a mission. And it was immensely successful. I don’t think three people could’ve eaten and tasted more than we did in the 80 hours of our NorCal Occupation. But who could blame us, San Francisco has so many exciting restaurants and an unparalleled quality of raw foods that I have yet to find anywhere else.
Our first stop on Saturday morning was the Ferry Building Marketplace, which is situated along the Embarcadero near the Bay Bridge. My original plan was to go to Boulettes Larder, a specialty food shop that serves a fabulous breakfast where the emphasis is placed on local ingredients. I was looking forward to some perfectly poached eggs accompanied by some seasonal produce and a steaming cup of frothy French-pressed Blue Bottle coffee.
But, as fate would have it, we got totally sidetracked. It was Saturday, which is Farmer’s Market day at the ferry building (along with Tuesday and Thursday). Upon spying the fresh fruits and vegetables, we decided that Boulettes Larder could wait.*
Now, I’ve been to a lot of farmer’s markets. But this particular one had me floored. A Veritable Feast for the Eyes, indeed. My senses were all crazy-abuzz from the surrounding smells, shapes and colors. ”Oh my god!” and “Look at that!” were not uncommon exclamations amongst my party.
At the numerous stands there was a bounty of plums (a few dozen different kinds), peaches bigger than softballs, elegant grapes with long stems, vibrant berries, baby lettuces, purple bell peppers, heirloom tomatoes, all manner of figs, puffy zucchini blossoms, flavored oils, pastured eggs, artisanal cheeses, grass-fed meats, the most gorgeous carrots you ever saw… (Can you tell I’m still reeling from some residual excitement?)
Everything was either organic, sustainable or artisanal. All the produce were of various shapes and sizes and tasted the way that food should taste. Wonderful aromas, concentrated flavors… Just walking through this place felt healthy, as if vitamins and nutrients could somehow travel through the air right into my skin. We were actually depressed that we didn’t have a kitchen to cook in.
Luckily, we were able to visit the Farmer’s Market a second time on Tuesday before we left. The market on the weekday offered a much smaller version, but the available produce was no less impressive. I brought back what produce I could manage. (Could someone please invent a LARGE refrigerated suitcase?)
When the Farmer’s Market isn’t running, there are an abundance of food shops to be explored in the rest of the building. Just to name a few: Cowgirl Creamery, which manufactures and sells some of the best cheeses stateside, Acme Bread, an artisan bread-maker that is to-die-for, and Miette, where I think I may have eaten the best éclair of my life. And of course, Boccalone: a charcuterie-lover’s dream come true, a pork-fiend’s paradise, an artisanal salumeria of “Tasty Salted Pig Parts.”
Boccalone is owned by Mark Pastore and Chris Cosentino (think Incanto) and I had missed visiting this place on our last visit, although the store had caught my eye. This time, I would not be deprived the opportunity of experiencing tasty, salted pig parts.
For this trip, we decided to stick to the salamis, as those would be easiest to transport home. We purchased an Orange & Wild Fennel Salami, Salame Pepato, Soppressata di Calabria, and a recent addition to the Boccalone selection, Nduja (en-doo-ya).
Soppressata di Calabria
We sampled the Orange & Wild Fennel Salami for the first time just the other night. In the words of my German husband: ”This salami is f****** good!” (If there is one field of food that this man is an expert on, its charcuterie). All the salamis are incredible, some of the best I’ve ever tasted. One just has to look at the meat to see the quality of the craftmanship that went into making them.
In particular, the Njuda is very interesting, having an almost rillette-like consistency, but somewhat smoother. It is often compared to French Andouille, although it is made of pork rather than inner organs. Originating from Calabria, this spreadable salami is spicy, smoky and reminiscent of red peppers and citrus. Somehow I find nduja both rustic and romantic, it makes me want to jump into a convertible and drive on a dirt road through the Italian countryside on a sunny day. Just stop by a grassy field, throw out a blanket, pull out some crusty bread, cheese, olives, figs, nduja and a bold red wine…life would be grand.
Thankfully, Boccalone offers home delivery, and an even more exciting opportunity to try their products through their Salumi Society. Pricey, but I’m betting it’s well worth it. (And I just adore the fact that they have a Salumi Society!) By the way, here are some tasty-looking recipes with Nduja.
And that’s not all. More posts on SF will be coming shortly: a drive to Yountville for dinner, some pizza and pastry in Pacific Heights, and more food at the Ferry Building. Suffice to say, I’m completely envious of anyone who inhabits Northern California. I think if I lived there, it would be impossible to leave. I couldn’t trade wine for water, so to speak. And that’s no exaggeration. Thank God for San Francisco.
*Worked out perfectly as restaurant service at BL is suspended during the farmer’s market.
Ferry Building Marketplace
One Ferry Building
San Francisco, California 94111
415.983.8000
www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com
Boccalone Salumeria
Ferry Building Marketplace Shop #21
San Francisco, CA 94111
415.433.6500
www.boccalone.com
Miette
Ferry Building Marketplace Shop #10
San Francisco, CA 94111
415.837.0300
www.miettecakes.com
Cowgirl Creamery
Ferry Building Marketplace Shop #17
San Francisco, CA 94111
415.362.9354
www.cowgirlcreamery.com
Acme Bread
Ferry Building Marketplace Shop #15
San Francisco, CA 94111
415.288.2978
www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com/acme_bread_company
7 comments
Wow, it sounds like that farmers market was a veritable treat for the eyes. I’m going to have to remember to go take a look next time I’m there.
I was just eating sliced spicy Soppressata last night, so it’s funny you bring it up. I’m also happy to see that I can order the Salami sampler from their website. In your opinion which is the best that they make?
Jerad: Out of the few salamis I got to try, the Orange & Wild Fennel is probably my favorite, with the Nduja and Salame Pepato right behind. I’m a sucker for fennel and spice. Boccalone also has a fennel & brown sugar one that I didn’t buy but want to try.
Welcome to SF! The Ferry Building is awesome, isn’t it! I pretty much love every type of cheese from Cowgirl and you really can’t beat the oysters at Hog Island!
Cookie: Thank you! Yes, Cowgirl totally rocks, as do the oysters at Hog Island which we were lucky enough to try. Just an amazing place, overall. I could LIVE in that building.
I am utterly jealous of you. That salami is easily the most wondrous and beautiful thing I’ve seen. It is almost to gorgeous to eat…almost. I would be in heaven if I could have a farmer’s market half that impressive around here but California has always been ahead of the organic and artisan food department. Great post, beautiful photos.
Hi,Tuggie: Thank you, and yes, the farmer’s market: it might easily turn me into a vegetarian if I lived there! (At least until I walked by Boccalone…)
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