Brussels Sprouts with Double-Smoked Bacon

I was one of those kids who hated brussels sprouts.  I refused to eat them, claiming that they tasted like an old sock (or what I imagined would taste like an old sock, because I don’t actually recall ever trying one of those.)  I would eat everything else that might accompany them on the same dish:  a grilled garlic-and-rosemary-marinated steak, browned crunchy slices of onion,  herb-roasted baby bliss potatoes…but not the brussels sprouts.  The miniature cabbages would sit in a shallow pool of leftover grease and juice on my plate, untouched, forlorn and neglected.

Today, brussels sprouts are one of my all time favorite vegetables.  In general I have an affinity for the entire cabbage family, but these little guys are my favorite. So how is it that my sentiments have undergone so material a change?  Well, looking back, I realize my contempt for brussels sprouts was entirely misdirected.  It was the way they were cooked that caused my disdain.  They were boiled in water for the most part.  Sometimes a little butter might be added afterward, but otherwise, they were utterly plain and bland, tasting like over-watered old cabbage.  (Note:  my mom was a fabulous cook, but brussels sprouts just weren’t her forte.)

Now, there’s nothing wrong with boiling brussels sprouts, a lot of restaurant cooks boil and blanch them ahead of time so that they won’t be in the weeds when service starts.  Plus, if one is going to serve them whole, par-cooking in water makes sense.  Its how one cooks them afterwards that can make a difference.  

For myself at least, I need to have some adequate caramelization going on.  Because one, it adds some crispness to the texture.  And two, what I really love in a cooked brussels sprout is that charred, slightly sweet taste that you can achieve only through using dry heat:  sautéing, roasting, grilling or broiling.  If one is going to use a wet heat method, some liquid other than plain water should be used.  A braise in chicken stock with aromatics would be lovely, for instance.  Brussels sprouts take on a whole new meaning when they are properly cooked:  what once tasted bitter, becomes sweet, in the proverbial sense.  

And it doesn’t hurt to add  double-smoked bacon, either.

Which brings me to my favorite way to prepare brussels sprouts.   There’s not a drop of water involved. Instead, the sprouts are lightly cooked in bacon fat with some onions.  Simple.  I prefer to cook them with double-smoked bacon to add a different texture and some flavor intensity, but regular bacon works fine too.

SAUTÉED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH DOUBLE-SMOKED BACON

MISE EN PLACE

1)  1/2 C bacon, small dice

2)  1/2 C onion, small dice

3)  2 C brussels sprouts, chiffonade

4)  salt and fresh ground black pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS

Place the bacon in a large skillet over medium-low heat.  Cook, stirring, until bacon is rendered out and slightly crispy, about 5 minutes.*  Drain out any excess fat, reserving 2 tbls in the pan.  Add the onion, cook until slightly brown, about 5-6 minutes.  Turn up the heat, stirring the bacon and onion.  Add in the sprouts, season and sauté so that they caramelize, but stir or toss often enough to prevent burning.  They are just cooked after about 3-4 minutes. Adjust seasoning and serve.

* If you are using pre-sliced bacon and the bacon is really thin, render it out on a lower heat.  Oil may be added as well to prevent burning if the bacon doesn’t have enough fat on its own.

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